So far in my posts, I've centered upon leathers and aspects relating to their use in the sports footwear industry.
This post turns its attention to the leather used in sporting gloves, and some of the core attributes and technologies.
My passion started with gloving leathers when I first started in the leather trade, and in my first job as an R&D drum runner at Pittards. It was amazing the wealth of technologies and processing steps involved in making a hairsheep leather (maybe more commonly known in the consumers world as cabretta leather) that was technically advanced and yet still ultra soft.
The biggest thing with gloving leathers is that they tend to have a lower chrome tanning content than footwear. As such the sweat that you perspire contains components that effectively 'cleave' the tannage and this is what happens when the leather not only shrinks, but dries very hard and cracks. No doubt you've seen this on a lot of the cheaper end golf gloves, and that is primarily due to the leather being made with basic technology in Indonesian tanneries, despite all the cool, fancy marketing names given to the leather. There are, however, a few companies that insist on high spec leathers, such as Nomis, Footjoy and Franklin, who source mainly from Pittards in the UK, usually being acknowledged with either WR100X technology or APL technology.
However, there is also a 'new kid on the block', being Surabaya-Noor Leather in Surabaya, Indonesia, that has recently popped up with a new gloving leather by the name of PWR (Perspiration and Water Resistant ????), which when I tested actually surpassed all the gloving leathers currently available, including that from Pittards. It has a quad-tannage system, so that it is protected in 4 different ways from detrimental effects of sweat and moisture. So if you're in the gloving business, then check them out!!!!!
The dry-soft attribute of gloving leather is also importantly. Whilst higher spec gloving leather is treated to resist getting wet/damp from sweat and moisture, ultimately it will, and if not processed correctly the fibres can stick together when the leather is dried out making it hard and stiff. You should be able to air dry the gloves (and note, never force dry with high temperatures!!!!) and the glove maintain its softness once dry.
Colourfastness, i.e. stopping the dye from bleeding or rubbing onto your pants, is also very important. Nowadays with good quality dyestuffs you have less issues, but again some inferior tanneries of China, India, Pakistan, Africa and some in Indonesia are using cheap, rubbish dyes, and these will consequently cause colourfastness issues.
So here's a start to this particular thread. And remember - in the gloving leather world, you definitely get what you pay for!!!!!!!
I'll write more next week. Cheers,
Dr Leather
Wednesday, August 27, 2008
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2 comments:
Hey Doc,
Do you have any experience with fetish leathers?? Not wearing them, but their manufacture, current trends, and companies that manufacture fetish clothes. Look forward to your comments!
;)
Hi anonymous,
Sorry but I have no real experience of the leathers used in fetish gear. Nor do I know if there are any specific manufacturers. Usually I think they are either hi-gloss (read shiny/patent) leathers or PVC material in black or red.
It's an interesting topic though, and one where you could easily make leathers more suited to their purpose I guess... e.g. stain resistant, abrasion resistant, and even anti-microbial (although it wouldn't kill some of the bugs associated with the fetish scene).
I do have a technology that would be great for their industry - which would allow very customised effects to be applied. Perhaps I'll look into this a bit further. Always a subject area though where one has to 'tread on egg shells'.
If I get any more info I will report back.... I think!!!!!!
Cheers,
Dr Leather
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